It is possible to fix your Range Rover Air Compressor in less than an hour and for as little as £27.00. if your Range Rover displays a fault code and stops working directly after selecting access mode, or manually lowering the cars air suspension it could just be the filter on the compressor or the valve which is fitted to the air dryer chamber. There are a few things that could go wrong with the Air Suspension, the compressor, relay, height sensors, etc so the first thing to do is have a competent auto electrician diagnose the problem, by trial and error it is possible to pinpoint the problem if the pump is not noisy and the fault occurs when the vehicle is being lowered rather than raised then it could be due to the filter or valve. 

Land Rover / Range Rover Dealers do not list replacement valves or air filters in their “New Shape” parts catalogue, and the only choice is to buy a new pump and have it fitted at a cost of something like £600 + VAT, but our Auto Electrician is brilliant and he knew that the Compressor Unit is exactly the same as fitted to some of the older L322 series and for that model, there are genuine Land Rover/ Range Rover spares listed he even gave us the 2 part numbers that we needed to order, they arrived the next day and this is a summary of the repair

The air compressor is situated in the boot under the spare wheel in the later Ranger Rovers ie from 2013 onwards (new shape) it is under the spare wheel in a semi-circular container which is held together with metal spring clips, now these things can flick off in any direction when you try to remove them so it is important to wear eye protection glasses, once the top is removed you can see the whole pump with the brass coloured exhaust valve at the top and facing you, telltale signs that the filter is blocked are signs of water, and also a white powdery tide mark on it, so the problem simplified is the air cannot evacuate fast enough from the system when access height or lowering is selected, and this, in turn, causes the system to stop working as a fault is detected and then the dreaded warning light comes on the dashboard, the light may go off when you turn off the ignition but only to return when you get a couple of miles down the road.





So if it is an AMK Pump we move to the repair, this is how I did it, its pretty simple but again I must stress, make sure you are wearing goggles as you are working with compressed air. First make sure that the lowest setting is selected on the ride height, remove the keys from the car and DON’T put them in your pocket, “CARS BITE IDIOTS!”  you don’t want to press against something and have the power close tailgate start to come down when you are just in a precarious position (YES IT HAS HAPPENED TO THIS IDIOT IN THE PAST) unclip the electrical connecting wiring loom plug on the compressor, then using a 14mm spanner slowly undo the brass coloured nut with the black plastic air pipe running through it, make sure you allow any remaining pressure in the system to escape, before undoing it completely, then using a T 30 Torx driver undo the 2 screws holding the black plastic air dryer on, do not undo the screws completely as the canister is full of hundreds of small, these are held in place by a steel circular shim which in turn is kept in place by a spring, as the canister is in a horizontal position it could be possible for these to fall out when you are removing the canister, so once the screws are nearly out but the spring is steel keeping the shim in place try to insert a screwdriver or small implement through the gap and through the spring keeping pressure on the shim, undo the last threads of the 2 Torx bolts and remove the dryer from the car, once out of the car I suggest you transfer to a clean work surface, run some insulation tape through the spring and onto the sides of the dryer to hold it and the thousands of beads in the container in place. Once his is done, remove the brass coloured air filter using a 17mm spanner and hold the dryer at an angle to allow any water that has collected to run out.




Next using a T25 Torx driver undo the 2 screws holding the valve in, I suggest putting a small amount of vaseline on the seal of the new valve locating it then screwing the Torx bolts back in a little at a time making sure that the rubber seal slides into place and does not get trapped or damaged. Then replace the air filter, clean the seal around the bottom of the dryer and also where it mates to the compressor unit, apply a little vaseline to the seal, make sure that you have the 2 Torx screws within reach, remove the insulation tape, put the crew driver back through the spring to hold the beads in place, then offer the dryer up to the compressor, as soon as you can feel tension on the spring remove the screwdriver and put the Torx bolts in, being careful to tighten them a little at a time keeping equal pressure on the spring and making sure that the seal locates correctly and doesn’t get trapped or damaged.







Once you have nipped up the Torx screws, replace the brass nut/air pipe, be very careful not to cross-thread this as it can be awkward to get back in, but do it with your fingers to make sure it is located correctly before retightening, press the wiring loom plug back in and then try the suspension, if you leave the soundproofed top off it can sound pretty loud, the compressor running when the car is going up and the rush of air being evacuated as the car goes down, remember, not only is it in its soundproofed sealed housing, inside the spare wheel, its also under the boot floor, and load cover when you are using the car normally, my car worked correctly straight away and didn’t need any codes clearing, and I hope that you are as lucky and this has saved you hundreds of pounds. 

You can also get a kit to replace the seals, and the beads out of the dryer, but I only found this out after I had repaired it and it was working, but you may want to do this while you have the dryer apart, it can’t do any harm but it looks as much fun as herding cats to me, so be careful.

Here is a list of tools needed and the part numbers that you need to complete the repair with our amazon affiliate link embedded



14 mm Spanner

17 mm Spanner

T30 Torx Driver

T25 Torx Driver

Insulation Tape

Part Number  LLR088858

Part Number  LLR075759